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When People Talk To Us TheyRe Not Thinking Who Am I Talking To Destinations

catalonia Strangest of all was the venue.

La Bisbal de Falset, in the greenish Catalan mountains of north eastern Spain.

It’s a shrine to Saint Lucy, patron saint of the blind. It also once served as a field hospital. Lord’s Prayer, a mother crying and, in the distance. While following passageways that are still damp and musty -in the early years after the war they produced a fine crop of mushrooms for one market trader -but which are now less claustrophobic and better lit, I joined them on a tour. The lights were turned out and we listened to a recording that conveyed quite a few sounds if little of the fear that used to fill this space. Ok, and now one of the most important parts. Sunday, and police were warning that two strangers were going doortodoor doing best in order to offload dodgy cement. Came announcements, interspersed with more music. Besides, a loudspeaker blasted out amidst the tunes that gets Catalans on their feet for the Sardana, their national dance, as we left. Basically, whenever judging by the local bush telegraph, are less bloody, Present day’ concerns. I’m sure you heard about this. Another stop was at one of Tortosa’s fine collections of art nouveau buildings.

Secundino stayed on Primitivo fled north to Figueres, when Franco’s troops arrived in the city.

Consequently Franco promised that those without blood on their hands could safely come home, Primitivo returned to Tortosa, when the war ended.

Secundino Sabaté Barjua’s sympathies lay with the Nationalists, his brother Primitivo’s with the Republicans. Nonetheless pleas were entered on his behalf by prominent Nationalists, He was arrested, interrogated and, executed by firing squad. This one, with Egyptian flourishes on its facade, was designed by Josep Maria Vaquer for two brothers, both surgeons, and used as a clinic. This is the case. Quite a few nurses were British and similar countries who had signed up to fight fascism. Three generations on, their compatriots are helping locals to keep alive the memory of what happened there. Patients included members of the International Brigades. With that said, Here, throughout the Battle of the Ebro, the bloodiest of the Spanish Civil War, casualties were brought in, assessed with a triage system and -a few of them -saved with a lot of the earliest blood transfusions. Some are now brought to an ossuary at the Camposines War Memorial, near the village of La Fatarella, to the north of Corbera.

Visitors seeking the remains of their relations are encouraged to provide a sample of DNA in the event a match can be made. Farmers, walkers and visitors to the Ebro battle sites are still finding bones. Whenever leading to the excavation of mass graves and to routes linking sites associated with fighting, atrocities or repression, since the start of this century, a popular movement has sprung up dedicated to the recovery of historical memory. Whenever in consonance with Alan Warren, another British incomer, is one in which Catalonia is kilometres ahead of quite a bit of Spain, That process. We’re seen as impartial, says Rachel. The actual question is. What did their family do?

They’re not thinking, ‘Who am I talking to, when people talk to us. What do locals make of the involvement of outsiders? Pact of oblivion silenced mention of the past in the interests of a stillfragile democracy, just after the death of ranco in 1975 and the end of the dictatorship. Many people were denied the opportunity to find, bury and mourn their dead, let alone to commemorate them. You see, Eighty years on from the outbreak of the Civil War on July 17 1936, these questions, for many in Spain, are still relevant. It’s a mirador where spilt blood is inseparable from scenic beauty.

With views over the countryside, Hill 705 is a mirador, a viewpoint. We looked out from it towards Hill Imagine it at nighttime, Alan said, lit up like a blizzard of fireflies with all the rifles going off. Throughout his life, he thought of himself as a survivor of the Ebro. That said, His interest is more than academic. In Corbera d’Ebre, north of Hill 705, we met Josep Maria Solé I Sabaté, a historian at Barcelona University, author of more than a dozen books on the war and coordinator of the Ebro memorial sites.

My father never considered himself a hero, he told me. However, Republican side, part of the known as quinta del biberón, in which boys as young as 16 were conscripted. Oftentimes whether it was accurate, A veteran in the audience. Was asked whether it was well done. Fact, The previous weekend, he said, there had been a screening locally of a brand new film. He said the reality was much worse. From the Cradle to the Battle. Usually, Both women were founding members of No Jubilem La Memoria, an organisation dedicated to the history of the Second Republic and the Civil War.

There she met the historian Angela Jackson, who was uncovering the story of the cave hospital and who introduced Rachel to the man she should end up marrying.

Rachel, from Hest Bank, near Morecambe, Lancashire, is living in Catalonia for 21 years, and now runs bespoke wine, food and history tours from Falset.

She first visited the village in the late Nineties from Barcelona University while researching the Civil War. Michael Kerr travelled as a guest of Kirker Holidays and the Catalan Tourist Board. Eventually, The Spanish Civil War. On top of that, Testimony, Memory and Remembrance of a Cave Hospital in the Spanish Civil War by Angela Jackson. You should take it into account. Beyond the Battlefield, Reaction, Revolution Revenge by Paul Preston. Sounds familiar? Further reading.

Always war!

Josep said as I traced this history on a wall panel. It was occupied successively by Muslims, a Catalan count, the Knights Templar and Hospitaller, and hereupon, at different times, by both Liberal and Carlist forces throughout the Carlist Wars of the 1800s. Then, Corbera is a new town. Nonetheless, The Poble Vell, or old town, above on the hill of Muntera, was destroyed by Nationalist bombing, and its ruins were left by Franco as a warning of what his opponents might expect. Great Rail Journeys hasa ‘fiveday’ itinerary called Arras and the Somme Battlefields2016, that includes a journeyaboard the P’tit Train de la Haute Somme, the historic locomotive that chugs through the last remaining section of the military railway network built in Departs August 19 and September 23, from 515 including return travel by Eurostar between London and Lille, coach travel, accommodation and since they had relations who fought in the Battle of the Ebro. Known while taking in scenes of fighting, including Cim 705 -which has a memorial to British and Irish volunteers on the Republican side -a Nationalist command post and cataloniaplaces that form part of the Memorial Consortium of the Battle of the Ebro Sites, I spent a couple of days with Alan. On April 15 he reported. Whenever winding one -in better condition, though, than those used by Ernest Hemingway, who travelled from Barcelona in 1938 to cover the Battle of the Ebro, The road south from Miravet to Tortosa is a looping. As more bombers came, the dust never settled and, therefore, it hung like a dark yellow fog all down the Ebro valley. Now look, the little city on the Ebro disappeared in a dark yellow mounting cloud of dust, when they dropped the sudden thunder of their loads.  Above us, in the high cloudless sky, fleet after fleet of bombers roared over Tortosa.

In between, Andreu Caralt, a journalist, and Maite Hernández, an anthropologist specialising in human rights, touch on both Hemingway’s career and on the social, political and cultural climate of Thirties Tortosa.

Last year, what had been the biggest air raid shelter in Tortosa, and the street in which I know it’s located renamed Hemingway Street. Tours began of La Ruta Hemingway, a walk between the shelter and a bridge over the Ebro that still bears the scars of war. Against a hill beneath a former trench, steps go down to a gravelled area with plaques bearing the names of soldiers from both sides who have disappeared. One handwritten note to a grandfather begins. Now let me tell you something. Here and look, there’re flowers, photographs and letters left by family members. Its hilltop castle has glorious views, Its houses climb a cliff above a meander in the Ebro.